Khorovats
Charcoal-grilled meat, Armenia’s essential barbecue.
The Caucasus · a personal road guide
Eight days through rose-stone cities, volcanic valleys, highland lakes and monasteries poised at the edge of the world.
Follow the route ↓01 · The journey
This route begins at the Georgian border, pauses among Gyumri’s black-tuff façades, crosses Yerevan, and then turns south through Areni and Goris before circling Lake Sevan.
It is a practical, road-tested itinerary from May 2024: ambitious enough to reveal Armenia’s scale, but paced with two-night stays in Yerevan and Sevan.
Stone changes colour here — black in Gyumri, rose in Yerevan, gold beneath Ararat.
02 · Road book
Open each day in Google Maps. Driving times can shift with mountain weather and border traffic.
Via Akhalkalaki and Ninotsminda. Settle into Armenia’s creative second city.
Open map ↗Day 0202Black Fortress, Echmiadzin Cathedral and the ruins of Zvartnots.
Open map ↗Day 0303Republic Square, Vernissage, the Opera district and sunset from the Cascade.
Open map ↗Day 0404Geghard, Symphony of Stones, Garni, Khor Virap, Noravank and Azat Reservoir.
Open map ↗Day 0505Tatev, the Wings of Tatev cableway and the cave village of Khndzoresk.
Open map ↗Day 0606Noratus khachkars, Hayravank and Berdkunk Fortress along the lake.
Open map ↗Day 0707A slower day for the peninsula, mountain air and freshwater fish.
Open map ↗Day 0808Sevanavank, Haghartsin and Goshavank before the return to Georgia.
Open map ↗
03 · Yerevan
Start at Republic Square, browse the Vernissage market, pass Freedom Square and the Arno Babajanyan monument, then climb the Cascade as the city turns amber. The centre is compact; save your energy for the steps and the evening café tables.
04 · At the table
A shortlist from the original travel notes — breads, soups, herbs and slow-cooked comfort food.
Charcoal-grilled meat, Armenia’s essential barbecue.
Tangy fermented-milk soup with wheat and herbs.
Meat and rice wrapped in vine or cabbage leaves.
A thin flatbread filled with mountain greens.
Slow-cooked wheat and chicken or lamb.
Sweet, buttery pastry in many regional styles.
Walnuts threaded through thickened grape juice.
The paper-thin and pillowy everyday breads.
05 · Our Armenia
A personal family album from eight days across Armenia — rain, mountain light and the places we still talk about.










05 · Small words, warm welcome
The Armenian is shown in its own script with an easy Latin reading.

06 · Before you go
01Currency: Armenian dram (AMD). The rates above are personal notes from May 2024 — check live rates before travel.
02For a road trip, confirm border-opening hours, insurance requirements and mountain conditions before departure.
03Cards work widely in Yerevan, but carry dram for guesthouses, markets and remote stops.